INNER CITY. Although Alio's ambiance can be noisy, the decor is festive and the restaurant, spacious. Alio's food is first class and the restaurant gained notoriety through its association with England's "naked chef," Jamie Oliver. The menu features simple Italian cuisine like polenta and saltimbocca. Notable entrees include slow-cooked pork loin and lamb cutlets in a parmesan herb crust. The food is fresh and the decor has a new bistro appeal. BUS: Cleveland Street. TRAIN: Redfern Station, then a 10-minute walk.

EAST CIRCULAR QUAY. Aqua Luna, popular with opera house patrons, is the perfect spot to start or end an evening. The ambiance is trendy, the clientele stylish, and the food very Italian. Entrees range from roasted scallops served with borlotti beans to linguine with clams in squid ink, chili, lemon and parsley. Aqua Luna's house specialty is wood-roasted snapper with organic beets and roasted garlic. The decor is elegantly casual and showcases floor to ceiling windows, Queensland walnut walls, and dark wood banquettes. Reservations required. Casual dress. TRAIN or FERRY: Circular Quay.

EAST SYDNEY. Tucked away on a corner near Hyde Park, just past St. Mary's Cathedral, awaits one of Sydney's best kept dining secrets. For over 40 years, Beppi Polese has beautifully blended his Northern Italian heritage with the bounty that Australia's waters offer. The cozy establishment features two main dining rooms seperated by a step-down and a unique third dining area that features quiet tables strategically placed about the restaurant's wine room. The friendly, knowledgable staff reflects the personality of Beppi himself. It's no wonder Beppi's has the distinction of being the oldest continually owned restaurant in Sydney.

A highlight of the southern suburbs of Sydney, Blackwater serves contemporary Italian food with a Neapolitan edge. Located by The George's River, the setting is serene and romantic, though it can get busy and is a large restaurant. Great dishes like Misto di Mare, a seafood pot in a tomato and white wine sauce, and Capretto, baked baby goat in onions and tomato with rosemary potatoes, make Blackwater stand alone on the southside as an upmarket Italian. TRAIN from Town Hall to Kogarah (23 minutes), then BUS 476 to Sans Souci (Approximately 1 hour total)

INNER CITY. Seafood Antipasto and Bucatini alla Matriciana, and a wonderful truffled egg pasta, are just some of the entrees that keep diners coming back to this local Italian favorite. Buon Ricordo's decor is classic Italian in design with tapestry-upholstered chairs and a turquoise-painted doorway. Attracting a mixed clientele including young professionals, executives and dedicated regulars, the restaurant provides elegant ambiance and great food. TRAIN/BUS: Kings Cross..